From ready-to-wear fashion to luxury accessories, and even eyewear, in collaboration with Luxottica, it’s a name that defines style. But let’s be real: No. 5 perfume and the legendary ‘Chanel Suit’ are where it all began. What really makes Chanel special, though, is how Coco transformed fashion. She tossed out those rigid, corseted designs and introduced clothing that was both functional and flattering, giving women the freedom to move without sacrificing elegance. It’s the kind of timeless revolution that still influences the way we dress today.
About the Founder
Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel was born in 1883 in Saumur, France, to a poor family. Her early life was difficult: after the death of her mother and the abandonment by her father, she was raised in an orphanage, where she learned the craft of sewing.
At 18, Chanel packed her bags and headed to Moulins, where she juggled school and convent life. By 1902, she was ready to take on the world, becoming a seamstress by day and a cafe singer by night. Although she didn’t win any singing awards, her charm made her the star of the show. As for “Coco”? Some say it’s a nod to the catchy tunes she belted out, like “Ko Ko Ri Ko” and “Qui qu’a vu Coco?” who knows, but it stuck!
It’s hard to imagine that someone who would later change the world of fashion, began her journey with such hardship. But Chanel’s resilience was born from these challenges, and her vision would soon start to take shape.
In her early twenties, Chanel moved to Paris, where she worked as a milliner. At the time, hats were a critical part of a woman’s wardrobe, but Chanel’s creations weren’t like those of other designers. They were simple, elegant, and understated.
Her hats caught the eye of fashionable women in Paris, including actress Gabrielle Dorziat, who famously wore one of her designs. But hats were only the beginning. What set Chanel apart was her ability to intuitively understand what women wanted: something practical, comfortable, yet stylish—a rare combination in the early 20th-century fashion.
From Hats to Haute Couture: The Birth of Chanel
Coco Chanel hit it off with Arthur “Boy” Capel, an English polo-playing socialite in the high-society circles of the time. Along with their romance, Boy became her biggest supporter, helping fund her first millinery shop, Chanel Modes, in 1910 at the chic 21 rue Cambon in Paris. The catch? The lease only allowed her to sell hats, not her legendary couture, but that didn’t stop Coco from dreaming big!
Years later, she didn’t just design hats, she expanded into clothing, focusing on elegant simplicity and comfort. At a time when women were still bound by restrictive corsets and overly ornate designs, Chanel’s approach was revolutionary. She dared to challenge the norm by using jersey fabric, a material associated with men’s underwear, to create chic, practical clothing. Who would have thought that something so unconventional would become the foundation of the brand’s signature style?
In 1913, Chanel opened a larger boutique in Deauville, a fashionable resort town. Here, she offered ready-to-wear pieces made from more affordable fabrics like wool and tweed, again, fabrics typically associated with men’s fashion. She was unafraid to break from tradition and push the boundaries of what fashion could be. It wasn’t just about looking good; it was about feeling good, too.
Introduction of Chanel Perfume - Chanel No. 5
In 1921, Chanel introduced Chanel No. 5, a perfume that would forever change the fragrance industry. At the time, most perfumes were simple and floral, marketed in ornate bottles, but Chanel No. 5 broke all conventions. Created by perfumer Ernest Beaux, it blended complex floral and woody notes into a perfume that felt like nothing else. Initially gifted to clients, the growing popularity of No. 5 led La Maison Chanel to begin selling it in 1922.
The sleek, minimalist bottle was equally groundbreaking, a sharp contrast to the overly decorative packaging common in those days. Chanel’s perfume became synonymous with luxury, and it still remains one of the most iconic fragrances in the world today.
The Chanel Suit
While Chanel No. 5 marked her influence in the world of fragrance, it was her Chanel suit that truly redefined women’s fashion. In the 1920s, Coco introduced the now-iconic collarless jacket and tweed skirt, two pieces that would form the foundation of countless wardrobe staples. The Chanel suit wasn’t just stylish; it was liberating. No longer did women have to suffer the discomfort of tight corsets or impractical clothing.
Her little black dress (LBD), introduced in 1926, took that liberation even further. Before Chanel, black was considered sombre and formal, reserved for mourning. But the LBD, sleek, simple, and undeniably chic became a symbol of elegance. It was a brilliant, yet subtle, reinvention of what was considered beautiful. It’s a piece that remains a wardrobe staple for women even today.
War and Resilience (1939 – 1950s) – Chanel’s Return to the Runway
In 1939, as World War II broke out, Coco Chanel closed her couture house and moved into the Ritz Paris, which became Nazi headquarters. During this time, she had a relationship with Baron Hans Gunther von Dincklage, a German diplomat and Gestapo spy. While some believe she was merely socialising with the Nazis, others suggest she was more involved, even acting as an agent. After the war, she was briefly arrested by French authorities but was released with the help of her friend, Winston Churchill. Chanel then retreated to Switzerland, only to return to the fashion world.
In 1954, after more than a decade of silence, she made her return to the runway at the age of 71. Despite initial scepticism, Chanel’s comeback collection was nothing short of a triumph. She reintroduced the tweed suit and further refined her approach to luxury, creating pieces that were both elegant and practical.
Fashionistas have always admired how Chanel was able to reinvent herself after the war. The 1954 collection spoke volumes about her character, her refusal to conform to trends and her commitment to timeless style. By the late 1950s, Chanel was once again at the forefront of fashion. Her quilted leather handbag, introduced in 1955, became an instant classic, combining form and function in a way that was uniquely Chanel.
History of Creative Directors
Karl Lagerfeld
When Coco Chanel passed away in 1971, many questioned whether the brand could survive without her. But Karl Lagerfeld, a visionary in his own right was appointed as the creative director in 1983. Under Lagerfeld’s leadership, Chanel became synonymous with modern luxury. He blended the brand’s iconic elements with his own edgy, artistic flair. Lagerfeld’s shows were more than just presentations, they were performances. His dramatic sets and bold themes turned Chanel into a cultural phenomenon, bridging the gap between haute couture and contemporary style.
Lagerfeld made Chanel feel like an experience, not just a brand. His influence elevated Chanel, making it relevant to new generations while staying faithful to Coco Chanel’s original vision.
Virginie Viard: Chanel’s Future
After Lagerfeld’s passing in 2019, Virginie Viard, who had worked alongside Lagerfeld for over 30 years, took the helm of Chanel. Viard has maintained the brand’s classic elegance while giving it a softer, more intimate feel. Her collections reflect a quiet sophistication, focusing on the delicate details that make Chanel’s designs timeless.
Today, Chanel remains a leader in the luxury fashion world. Its commitment to craftsmanship and exclusivity, coupled with its ability to adapt to modern tastes, has kept it at the forefront of the industry. Chanel’s collections continue to be iconic, from its haute couture pieces to its ready-to-wear collections. The brand has successfully navigated the challenges of a changing world, staying true to its roots while evolving with the times.
The Legacy of Chanel: A Symbol of Timeless Elegance
Chanel is more than just a fashion house, it’s a symbol of freedom, elegance, and boldness. From the groundbreaking designs of Gabrielle Chanel to the modern interpretations by Lagerfeld and Viard, the brand has managed to stay relevant while honouring its rich history. What started as a small millinery shop in Paris has grown into a global icon, but the essence of Chanel remains unchanged: simplicity, sophistication, and above all, the empowerment of women.